Showing posts with label Ceara. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ceara. Show all posts

Ceará In My Mouth

Final food post from our holiday! But not the last one from Brazil, don't worry. This post is about the food we ate in Fortaleza and Jericoacoara, both of which are in the state of Ceará. 

Now, Rio de Janeiro might be a coastal city but there seems to be a distinct lack of fresh seafood, and what there is tends to be very expensive. With this in mind, you can imagine how excited Dave was when people told him how cheap and delicious the seafood in Fortaleza is! We had already eaten quite a lot of fish in the Amazon but David was really looking forward to eating prawns and crabs that he has heard some much about from his colleagues. I don't enjoy shellfish but I do enjoy watching Dave eat it so all in all we had high hopes!

These lovely, crunchy, battered prawns were devoured by a certain someone while we were sitting on the beach at the Croco Beach kiosk/resort. It was a great place to spend an afternoon, but very touristy and therefore not quite as cheap as we were hoping. But regardless they were munched with gusto. The sauce was a generic mix of ketchup and mayo but the kiwi was a pleasant surprise! Kiwis aren't cheap here so it was a bit of a luxurious garnish.

During our whirlwind beach tour Dave convinced me to let him order a seafood sharing platter. It came with prawns (for him), langoustines (for him) and fish (for me). As you can see in picture below, the fish wasn't particularly prominent. Everything was grilled and well seasoned and David really enjoyed it. The fish was quite fishy and full of bones so not really my cup of tea but I did manage to eat half a langoustine. Now, I can appreciate that it was fresh and well cooked, and the flavour was pleasant enough (a little sweet and a bit smokey from the grilling) but just like with prawns, it was the texture that really got in my way. I just don't like that crunch...even the thought of it now is making me shudder. I don't know why, but it is really unappealing to me and so no matter how great this kind of thing is, I don't know that I'll ever be able to enjoy it.



As well as the above platter, we ordered some crab. Naturally, because we always order too much! But crab is hard to come by in Brazil and it was so cheap in this restaurant that I insisted Dave get some. Unfortunately, it took over an hour to arrive and when it finally did we simply didn't have time to eat it because the coach was leaving. It looked and smelled amazing though. Oh well, maybe next time!



Now, this next restaurant was a little decadent but we went at the end of the holiday when Dave was starting to get the blues about going back to work. It is called Coco Bambu, and there are several branches in Brazil, with one opening soon in Rio. It was very highly rated and when we arrived the queue was massive so we were really excited.

We started with a kind of anti-pasti plate of sundried tomatoes and Brazilian halloumi, roast aubergine in tomato vinaigrette, herby marinated prawns, fresh grilled tomatoes and a really delicious salmon ceviche. It came with various breads and we demolished it in no time. The salmon was the stand-out on the plate, but everything was really tasty. Great start!

Next we shared another dish from the starter menu - lobster in butter with capers and mixed peppers. I was apprehensive about the lobster for obvious reasons but actually it was quite soft and not too crunchy. This was a really tasty dish and the flavours all worked very well together. So far we were very impressed with the restaurant, even though it was quite pricey. 
I feel I should mention the menu because it was huge! It honestly took us ages to choose our dishes because there were probably about a hundred things on the menu, a lot being very similar with just slight variations to the sauce or accompaniments. But we were happy to take the time to read the whole thing, especially once our white wine sangria arrived! It was really delicious and full of fruit. Another extravagance but hey, what are holidays for?! We're not backpacking anymore you know. Anyway, we chose a main to share and it's just as well because of course, it was big enough for two. I wish that was clearer on all menus in Brazil, because sometimes it's really hard to tell just from the price. But we had suspected this was the case based on the dishes being taken to other tables so on this occasion, it wasn't a surprise.
Well, we finally decided on a fish dish, although it didn't specify what fish so this is a mystery! Grilled fish, with a sauce of mango, passion fruit and ginger, served with broccoli rice and pumpkin puree. Oh and it was topped with chopped cashew nuts. A bit of a weird sounding combo but that just made it all the more appealing. I don't really know what to say about this meal other than that it was soooooo sweet! The pumpkin puree was okay but tasted more of the cheese that was melted on top of it than anything else. The rice was nice but there wasn't as much broccoli as I have had before. The actual fish was meaty and tasty but the sauce...oh my, the sauce. Objectively it was a really tasty flavour, with big slices of juicy mango. Unfortunately, it was so sweet and creamy that it was basically like a fruit custard or melted ice cream, which believe it or not didn't really go so well with the fish! Such a shame.


Moving on, the photo on the left is of some seaside snacks we had while sitting by a lagoon during our three beaches tour. Sliced sausage and Brazilian halloumi. Both grilled to perfection over a few coals in a bucket. On the right is an epic pile of three ice creams, from a shop that boasts fifty flavours! And during the half an hour it took us to decide, I think we tried almost all of them. In the end we settled for ferrero rocher, dulce de leite and one called Obama, which was hilariously a mix of dark, milk and white chocolate with chunks of chocolate and caramel. Delicious!








I'm going to whizz through these next things because this post is getting too long! First up is a tomatoey stew of sting ray, if you can believe it! We got it in a really really cheap restaurant in Jeri and it tasted good, if a little basic.
Next is a tapioca pancake filled with chicken, tomato, mozzarella and basil. Tapiocas can be quite dry but this one was really tasty and a great little snack to keep me going until our lovely romantic dinner with the Swedes!
And here it is - a feast for four from the delightful little restaurant Na Casa Dela in Jericoacoara. It was all outdoor seating in a beautifully decorated garden with fairy lights and other wonders hanging from the trees. We got two types of beef which were obviously delicious and then as many vegetable sides as we could! I would highly recommend this restaurant because the food and service were both brilliant.
This banana cake is apparently a bit of a famous dish from Jeri. I am told it was nice enough, but very sweet and nothing special. Just a biscuit base with condensed milk and bananas on top, sprinkled with cinnamon and baked. Nothing to complain about of course, but nothing Dave will be looking back on and pining for.
On the left is a well known Brazilian dish called vatapá. It's a seafood stew with a coconut sauce that had an incredible depth of flavour. No chilli, but a lot of creamy, rich sauce and apparently excellently cooked prawns and lobster. On the right is what I ordered - cashew-crusted (perfectly cooked) steak with a black pepper rosti. Absolutely delicious! Both dishes were from a great restaurant in Jeri called Tamarindo


Dave couldn't leave Jeri without trying this dish we had seen at so many restaurants there - prawn stew in a pineapple! He really enjoyed it, although I think the big chunks of pineapple maybe made it a little too sweet at times, but then we have come to accept this as something we need to get used to when fruit is involved in any Brazilian dish.





Our final mean in Jeri was from a rough and ready fish restaurant called Peixe Brasileiro, where Dave personally selected a fish that had been caught that morning, which was then grilled simply and served with lime and a few sides. I have no idea what kind of fish we had but it was flaky, creamy and delicious. And there was a band playing at the cafe across the tiny little street so we got some free entertainment too! A great way to end a lovely few days in sandy, sunny Jericoacoara.

Jericoacoara - Hard to Say, Easy to Love


The final stop on our whirlwind 23 day tour of various amazing places in North and North East Brazil (which we have thrilled you all with in the last few posts) was Jericoacoara. Not the easiest name to pronounce (go on, have a go) but it is a very well known beach town in Brazil. When you speak to Brazilians about holidays they talk about Fortaleza and the various nearby beaches such as Jericoacoara, or Jeri for short. It is the must see beach town and the Boracay of South America – famous for honeymoons and amazing accommodation. We were hoping it would be a cool and tranquil place to spend a few days at the end of a busy holiday and travelling adventure.

The Journey



We were picked up at 7.30am to start a bus journey that would take 5 hours, mais ou menos (more or less). I don’t know why they say mais ou menos rather than just mais, it’s always mais. It took nearly 8 hours in total involving a stop at a restaurant at 10am (way too early to eat). During this initial leg of the journey we saw a lot of tall palm trees and I started to understand where all these delicious cocos were coming from. Once we reached the edge of the national park we transferred onto Jeeps and were travelling around the dunes, where we stopped for a short but beautiful break. It really was like a desert with the high dunes and strong winds, and was a fascinating landscape to observe. Every so often we came across a small lagoon, which provided a great way to cool off in the baking sun.

The Pousada



We booked a delightful little pousada (B&B) on the quiet side of town and the end of the main road. The accommodation was amazing, such a peaceful place to spend the evenings and mornings. They had delicious cakes and mediocre coffee (a surprisingly common feature in Brazil) that I indulged in a little too much. We had a hammock outside our room, which Katie took full advantage of, rocking back and forth like a crazed monkey. Looking at photos of this place now, it becomes clear what a paradise this place was and what a great way it was to end the holiday.

The Town of Jericoacoara



We were a little unsure of what to expect from Jeri, as part of us was hoping for another paradise place like Gili Air in 2012. But it was more like a Gili T with a much more built up town full of shops, restaurants, and tour offices. It did have a great feel about it – similar to how I imagine Boracay to be, or a small Thai beach town (but with Brazilian prices!).

We spent a couple of days just chilling on the beach of Jeri and going for delicious food in the evening. My only qualm with the beach itself is the number of vendors that are bombarding you non-stop as you are relaxing. The calmness of the markets of Brazil, which are free from hassle, is not translated to these beaches. A slight but persistent annoyance.

It didn’t stop me from buckling down though and getting stuck into some writing, forming a more detailed plan of my second novel, a sequel to my highly anticipated first book Centum 184 (currently being edited by Katie). The name of the sequel shall remain a mystery for now...

A Buggy Tour



There are two main buggy tours that you can do from Jeri and both involve travelling along long stretches of sand, whizzing by numerous dunes, and various other activities. We chose the tour that went east rather than west as it required a bit less drive-time and a bit more seeing and doing. We met a lovely couple from Sweden called Jessica and Tibor and we spent a few days with them, one in Jeri and another on the buggy tour. 



Our first stop was at a place with some interesting rock formations, including the famous rock where the sun sets through its hole every day. However as this was first thing we did in the day, the sunset was nowhere to be found... A lot of other tourists were around though. It made the experience a little less enjoyable as when you see rocks and serene beaches, you want the accompanying serenity and not a mad group of tourists snapping away on their iPhones, diluting the experience. It’s like the old belief that taking a photo steals a person's soul – nowadays it’s more like with every Instagram, a piece of the place’s soul is shared on the internet and the real connection is lost from that moment.



After the rocks we visited an even busier tree.  He was a laid back fella that had been shaped by the very strong winds.


Driving around on this glorified quad bike over this beautiful landscape was an amazing experience. Going across dunes and dirt tracks while seeing burrowing owls, vultures, and hawks was very special. Next up was Lagoon Azul where we had to wade through this gorgeously coloured water to sit at a quiosque and drink a deliciously sweet aqua de coco. There were also water hammocks and I really enjoyed chilling on them; it felt like floating in a bath tub as the water was so warm.


After this lagoon, we drove to a different one called Paraiso and this place really was like something out of a film. A true paradise and the four of us stayed there for about three hours, enjoying the delicious food and again chilling in water hammocks whenever we needed to cool off.

The final stop on the tour was Lagoa Coroção (Heart Lagoon) where we could “skibunda” down a dune into the water. It was great fun and Jessica was a natural, while I was only really good on my first attempt and unfortunately Katie caught one of my goes that highlighted my lack of technique.


The day ended with a drive back to our pousada, through the national park. We went over a lot of dunes and captured some incredible moments on film. Maybe it was because we had just watched the new Jurassic Park film and I was humming the theme tune, but riding about in this buggy over a dirt track with trees either side, we really felt like we might see a dinosaur.

The Journey Home



After the bad journey into Jeri with regards to time, we decided to go with a different company back, which involved a 9am departure and a stop off at a different part of the Paraiso lagoon. We had been in Jeri for five days but this final stop was one of the nicest places we went to on our 23 day holiday. It was super chilled and quiet, and was where I penned the majority of this blog post, listening to the birds singing, lagoon waves splashing, and children playing in the water at this tranquil spot. A delightful way to end a delightful holiday. Scroll down for some awesome photos!

A Few Tips About Jeri


You can book a single journey from Fortaleza to Jeri for R$60 although we paid R$70. Thoroughly recommend coming back via Paraiso as it was a great way to break up the journey.

At the far far end of Jeri beach is a bar called Ventoclub, complete with sun loungers and chairs at reasonable prices. It's a good please to chill out and they have showers, although that end of the beach has rocks which makes entering the water a little more painful.


  



Every night hundreds of people (or at least it felt like that many!) walk up this big sand dune on Jeri beach to watch the sunset and, of course, clap when it finally disappears



These little burrowing owls are only about 20cm tall and are very cute

Our Swedish friends, Jessica and Tibor





Lagoa Paraiso

Lagoa Paraiso again - truly stunning

Can't you just picture a celebrity wedding taking place here?!







Caracara


Another Burrowing Owl